
What is the 2020 Commitment?
At Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017, Global Fashion Agenda called on the fashion industry to take action on circularity by signing the 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment (henceforth 2020 Commitment) as a concrete way to turn words into action and to accelerate the industry’s transition to a circular fashion system.
To set a direction for this transition, Global Fashion Agenda outlined four immediate action points:
1) Implementing design strategies for cyclability
2) Increasing the volume of used garments and footwear collected
3) Increasing the volume of used garments and footwear resold
4) Increasing the share of garments and footwear made from recycled post-consumer textile fibres
“While it’s encouraging to see 12.5% of the global fashion market taking concrete action toward circular business models, we must urgently address major roadblocks collaboratively to pave the way for a systemic shift towards circularity.” – Morten Lehmann, Chief Sustainability Officer, Global Fashion Agenda
2020 Commitment Status Report: Year 3 (2020)
CIRCULAR FASHION SYSTEM COMMITMENT
As of August 2020, the 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment (2020 Commitment) had been signed by 86 companies, representing 12.5% of the global fashion market.
The Final Report covers year three of the 2020 Commitment and shines a light on signatories’ actions to reach set targets. It seeks to provide an overview of the overall progress for each action point, emphasising key learnings and takeaways to inspire the whole industry with real actions towards a more circular fashion system. In addition, it highlights earlier achievements as well as past and ongoing initiatives and policy updates. The 2020 Commitment was inclusive to companies of all sizes, market segments and stages at which they were on their circularity journey. As of August 2020, signatories have set 207 targets distributed across four action points:
1) Implementing design strategies for cyclability
2) Increasing the volume of used garments and footwear collected
3) Increasing the volume of used garments and footwear resold
4) Increasing the share of garments and footwear made from recycled post-consumer textile fibres
Of the 207 targets set by our 86 signatories, almost 2/3’s were successfully reached and, in some cases, exceeded – we believe this to be an incredible achievement for the industry considering the challenges the industry has faced over the past three years and continues to face today.
Progress made on the individual action points is as follows: 68% of targets were reached for Action Point 1 (Design), 56% on Action Point 2 (Collection), 62% for Action Point 3 (Resale) and 67% on Action Point 4 (Recycling).
SIGNATORIES

TARGET

Design
Targets set within circular design saw the successful delivery of 20 circular design training programmes across product development teams focusing on a number of circular design principles which have since been embedded into design briefs. (To be specific 30 signatories successful integrated circular design principles into some or all design briefs).
Many signatories partnered with educational institutions and thought leaders alike to help shape internal training programmes and tools to aid in material choice selections.
In response to Covid19 many turned to online training that could be carried out from home, others were able to host interactive upcycling and sustainable material selection workshops to engage designers.
The additional creation of internal guidelines and tools enabled our signatories to better understand the circularity potential of their products, however many of our signatories highlighted a lack of common industry understanding and language on circularity and its design principles, leading to a number of individual adaptations.
Many signatories also developed internal policy guidelines for ‘sustainable’ material use and manufacturing processes whilst others focused on external consumer facing guidelines on how to care and repair garments to extend the lifecycle of their clothes.
LEARNINGS
The key learning taken from this action point is the importance of education beyond design and product development teams, inclusive of consumer audiences and supply chain partners where circularity largely remains a relatively new concept.
Many closely collaborated with suppliers to better cooperate on the design process and source more recycled materials.
Collection
The targets set for collection largely focused on increasing consumer touchpoints for garment collection both online and in-store across global markets, many of which were leveraged through a number of external partnerships including Packmee and thredUP.
CHALLENGES
Larger signatories who have gone about setting up their own collection infrastructures faced high sorting/handling costs, storage, redistribution, and complex reverse logistic streams. Whereas our smaller signatories struggled to find solution partners willing to handle smaller quantities or partners located in the right geographical regions.
LEARNINGS
Various consumer incentive initiatives and educational campaigns were also developed to educate consumers on responsible clothing disposal. Our signatories found that in order to raise collection volumes, effective and engaging consumer facing communications around collection schemes proved crucial to success.
This year due to local lockdowns and reduced highstreet shopping ambitious collection targets set pre Covid were hit hard however many were able to adapt collection to online platforms and in turn benefitted from better data and transparency of post-consumer waste flows.
Resale
COVID-19 has greatly boosted the consumer demand for secondhand clothing which has led our signatories to making resale options more widely available to consumers via a number of physical and online channels, many with the support of collection and re-commerce solution providers including Sellpy and I:CO.
CHALLENGES
Unpredictable flows of product, both in terms volume and qualities were just some of the challenges faced complicating the planning and execution of resale activities especially during the pandemic.
Many found a severe lack of local infrastructure for upcycling at scale which avoided unsustainable levels of clothing redistribution – solution provider services not located in the right geographical areas.
Continued lack of incentive and awareness amongst consumers has led to prolonged negative perceptions of recycled materials and secondhand products impacting on demand.
LEARNINGS
It was learnt that increasing these resale touch points gave brands the opportunity to establish longer terms relationships with customers go forward.
Recycling
Despite the lack of scalable recycling technologies surrounding textile recycling at present, promising technologies were identified, and many signatories were successfully able to incorporate post-consumer waste into their collections.
Our larger signatories also made significant investments to fund research around textile recycling. Whereas our smaller signatories invested into existing solutions (eg Renewcell and Worn Again) and or collaborated with industry bodies (eg Textile Exchange, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Fashion For Good) to carry out various research and pilots.
CHALLENGES
Some signatories struggled to access post-consumer textile streams that met quality requirements.
Higher costs
Impact on lead times.
A significant lack of government incentives to pilot or scale recycling technologies and remove trade barriers and regulations which prevent the flow of waste to recycling locations were highlighted.
LEARNINGS
The above activities (funding/ research) greatly highlighted an opportunity for co-investment and supplier collaboration in order to scale these technologies.
2020 Commitment status report: Year 2 (2019)
A CALL TO ACTION
During the 2017 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, Global Fashion Agenda called on the fashion industry to take action on circularity by signing a commitment as a concrete way of turning words into action. The goal was to increase the number of fashion brands and retailers taking action on circularity with the aim of accelerating the industry’s transition to a circular fashion system.
To monitor progress, we requested these brands to monitor their progress through an annual status report. The Status Report is composed of feedback that signatories gave in a mandatory annual survey, as well as a voluntary group and one-on-one discussions.
Signatories

Targets

2020 Commitment status report: Year 1 (2018)
COMMITTING TO CHANGE
This is the first status report of the 2020 Commitment which covers the first year of the commitment from 2017-2018. The report focuses on the targets and strategies set by the signatories—keeping in mind that future reports will focus on the actions taken to reach those targets.
The report aims to provide an overview of how far companies have come since signing the 2020 Commitment, but also functions as a platform to share experiences of working with circularity in the fashion industry. The report identifies companies that have not lived up to the commitment’s requirements, but it does not compare the individual efforts of companies.
SIGNATORIES & TARGETS
Signatories have set their individual targets for 2020 with the minimum requirement of setting a target within one or more of the four action points. Global Fashion Agenda and BSR have provided guidance to signatories on setting targets, however, it is up to each individual company to set its own strategy and ambition level.
SIGNATORIES








TARGET MATRIX

SUPPORTERS
Circular Fashion Event
In November 2020, we marked the launch of the 2020 Circularity Fashion System Commitment Final Report and kicked off the new Circular Fashion Partnership in Bangladesh.
This year marked the closing of our 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment, a three-year commitment launched during Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017, as a call on the fashion industry to take action on circularity by signing a commitment as a concrete way to turn words into action. 86 signatories, representing 12.5% of the global fashion market set targets against a four-action point framework over the course of the commitment. The Final Report, reveals the progress made, key learnings and major barriers the industry currently faces.
During the launch event, we also kicked off our new Circular Fashion Partnership, a cross-sectorial project lead by Global Fashion Agenda made possible by P4G with project partner Reverse Resources, BGMEA, textile and garment manufacturers, recyclers and major fashion brands operating in Bangladesh. The mission of the partnership is to support the development of the recycling industry in Bangladesh by capturing and directing post-production fashion waste back into the production of new fashion products.
For more information about the Circular Fashion Project contact Project Manager Sandra Gonza: cfp@globalfashionagenda.com.
Re-watch the circular fashion event here.